Eva Mackenzie

Watching Julia Crews lecture on Sustainability and Power, prompted me to question who exactly holds power in the fashion industry? After much thought and research on the topic, it became apparent that there was no way to directly pinpoint one individual to blame for the lack of ethics and sustainability in and around fashion. From the multimillion-dollar business owner down to the 9 to 5 working consumer, everyone has some sort of blame on their hands. By simply purchasing a garment or following a brand on Instagram that doesn’t pay fair wages or provide suitable working conditions, you are supporting and permitting this behavior, allowing the materialistic, fast fashion¹ cycle to continue and thrive. 

Through history fashion has been used as a tool to communicate power, this is blatant when looking at the royal family for example. Kings and Queens would historically be drowned in diamonds, jewels, fur and rich fabrics². The same power could be seen through military dress, the more badges and medals you had on your suit equated to the power you inevitably held. In recent times the respect and power once held by the royal family and military hierarchies has dwindled, with the power now being shifted to figures in the media. The rise of the ‘Insta Baddie’³ and staggering increase in popularity of social media platforms such as Instagram and Twitter, now means that power is found in the number of followers and likes you have. Young girls are being forced to grow up quicker than ever, no longer do they aspire to be princess’ and live happily ever after with their prince, they look to be invited on brand trips and bag themselves #sponsored posts. As Malcom X said “the media is the most powerful entity on Earth” which is truer now than ever.  

In just 10 years Instagram has over 1 billion active users⁴, 200 million of these follow fashion related accounts, introducing the emergence of fast fashion. By turning everyday people into social media celebrities, we have fueled the business of brands such Misguided, Pretty Little Thing and Primark. Such brands are reproducing looks worn in posts by Kylie Jenner and Kim Kardashian, or Love Island stars such as Molly Mae Hague in a matter of days for a fraction of the cost. It is inevitable that the young girl scrolling through Instagram would rather buy the £5 knock off version of a product as oppose to the genuine item for £1,000+. But this small price tag comes with a high ethical cost. Primark for example have been exposed to exploiting their staff in sweatshops, forcing poor individuals who have no other choice to work ridiculously long hours for a pittance. Therefore when looking at the broader picture, Crews’ lecture has opened a can of worms in my mind questioning how everyone in the fashion industry could do their bit to make the whole process more ethical and sustainable. Whether that be the factory owners upping the minimum wage and offering more humane working conditions, or the young fashionistas saving up their money and investing in a more sustainable brand.