Maureen Santiago Rebelo Neto D Almeida

Considering that Emily Bode is a sustainable brand which uses elements of nature in its designs, the initial idea for our final project was to film in a place surrounded by nature, for instance, Hyde Park in London. However, the extraordinary circumstances we are all now living in forced my group and myself to come up with a new concept for the final project. 

In order to complete the digital moving image, we wanted to make sure the diversity in the group was shown in the video. Therefore, it was a collective idea to include different landscape of places where we live, to then match the looks which reminded us of the brand (Emily Bode) with the respective landscapes. Additionally, there are examples of embroidered and patchwork on Bode, to transfer the same concept into the moving image we used a patchwork blanket. The idea of vintage (sustainability) and nostalgia was also present in my group’s moving image.  

The main aim of the project was to create awareness to a sustainable brand other Fashion activism student might have not been familiar with. 

Link for the final digital moving image: 

https://web.microsoftstream.com/video/9f02aab6-a5fd-4c4b-a979-a00108f338a2?channelId=490f8d2f-85d4-4daa-9b6d-cdc70dfe01c6

I am completely different person after attending the Better Lives lectures. Across the duration of the Better Lives unit I was able to learn about thematic issues I had never given much thought to. These issues are sustainability, diversity and social responsibility. Frankly, all the lectures were essential to sensitize and enlighten me about serious problems in the fashion industry. They also enabled me to see fashion through worrying eyes; to start considering my consumer power, to understand the importance of a brand’s ethos and positioning and to care more about having more different races and ethnicities well-represented in campaigns and catwalk shows. In like manner, I understood that in order to make a significant change I must start by altering my lifestyle choices. I was clueless as to how easy and life-changing it is- it made me feel better about myself. 

Is my desire to share with other people, including people outside the fashion industry, all the learning I absorbed over these past weeks. Nevertheless, I think it is more of a duty to do so. To raise awareness of social issues, which we can all help to minimize, in this way contributing to an eco-friendlier environment.  

In terms of project development, the challenge was greater. As and exemplification, although the global pandemic prevented us from working together, face to face, my group and I persevered and decide to work with the tools we had at the time. This is an example of an obstacle we encountered in our project and as a group we came up with a solution. This situation helped me comprehend that there is always a solution if you put your mind into it. 

Moreover, it was fascinating to work with students who come from different corners of the world and are specialising in different areas of fashion. By using personal skills and knowledge we were able to help each other and enrich our final digital moving film. Also, I am grateful for the video editing skills I gained. I hope I get the opportunity to work with them again in the near future, if not them, an equal diverse and hard-working group. 

Sustainability, Social responsibility and Diversity are the main themes touched on in the Better Lives unit. Frankly, I never really gave the themes mentioned above much thought, not until I enrolled at UAL last September. In particular, when choosing Fashion Activism as part of the Better Lives unit. I would be lying if I said these Better lives lectures did not shape my thoughts and views on certain themes involving the fashion industry into a worrying path. 

Melodie Roulaud explained it takes 2,720 litres of water to make a t-shirt, equal to the amount of water normally drunk over a 3-year period. Shocked by this information, when I now see something, I want to buy I auto debate whether it is really needed. Imagine the thirsts could be quenched worldwide if people started behaving eco-friendlier? Supporting sustainable brands and not mainstream brands. Make do and mend not buying another item. Over these past weeks, fashion activism made me see that fashion journalists also fight for a change- but through words. So, in the future I want to focus more on interviewing, writing articles and promoting sustainable brands to help them making a difference. 

Regarding social responsibility, Better Lives taught me the importance of understanding a brand’s ethos and a brand’s positioning. As a creative, working for a brand that doesn’t offer sustainable options to customers or who neglects employees working conditions is undesirable. Fashion activism also reinforced the seriousness of working with/for a brand reflecting the values and work ethic your own values and work ethic. In order to transmit a brand’s message successfully and clearly (through a photoshoot or any sort of moving image) creative directors must study the brand’s positioning; whether it appeals to a younger or older generation or its competitors. For instance, given the opportunity, I would think twice before collaborating with Tom Ford because he still agrees with the murder of animals to produce real fur garments, arguing that non real fur is not biodegradable, thus affecting the environment badly. I would prefer to work for a brand which tries to improve the world little by little, then a brand with a dishonourable ethos. 

Meanwhile everybody was challenged create a brand represented as a group and as individuals. My group decided to invent a brand with the initials of our names JANIM. Coincidentally, it means soul in Kazakhstan (the home country of two. I found this task entertaining and instructive because it gave me the opportunity to learn how diverse my group is. As Harry Nef once said, “diversity is everything.” Diversity is accepting a person regardless of its skin colour, disability, body size or religion. Diversity is not a trend I intend to follow; yet a lifestyle. I want to collaborate with as many diverse people as possible, because they all have a beautiful story, I can tell the world. 

Before Better Lives I wasn’t aware of the power I hold as a future fashion journalist. It wasn’t clear how I could help improve the industry from my desk at UAL. Now, after seeing several people and niche/ mainstream brands contributing massively to bringing awareness to the three main issues in the industry, I feel empowered and ready to live up to those three principles.  

“We can’t address the topic of sustainability without addressing consumerism and the buyer power” Anna Fitzpatrick started off a Better Lives Conference on Fashion, Sustainability and Culture, a lecture which greatly influenced my understanding of sustainability and our consumerism behaviour. I tend to forget that these social issues go hand in hand. Seen as, I take my power as a fashion buyer for granted, I fail to recall the value of garments, where they were produced and the working conditions of the labour force. Because of this reason, I lose my cultural practise. Not to mention, consumers are encouraged to purchase something everywhere they go. For instance, when we go on holidays, we have a habit of returning home with personal souvenirs, but also for friends and relatives. How can we fight this urge to overconsume? 

Consumer culture can be loosely defined as the desire and ability to live beyond basic needs. It arguably became a truly mass phenomenon during the 20^th century, and particularly after the Second World War (Hall et al.2008.89). This definition can be linked to the idea of cultural swift. This is to say, in this day and age, we as consumers instead of having more leisure time, we decide to buy more. Feel tired? Buy a coffee! Buy clothes to reward yourself for passing an exam. This is a vicious cycle which seems difficult to break, as statistics confirm consumers buy 60% more than they need every year. According to Fitzpatrick the percentage will be higher in 10 year.

At some point in the conference, Fitzpatrick made mention of Kawamura (2005), who argued that fashion and clothing are distinct concept, fashion is immaterial, while clothing is material. This statement prompted me to think once again about how much I consume. Fashion depends on nature resources (land, water, air and animals) and there will be repercussions if we simply use them and don’t find a way to put them back, like the cotton to make those plaid skirt which girls like me love so much. 

Having learned more key points about consumerism and sustainability in this lecture, I now understand I must do something to alter my consumerism habits. Starting with small steps, like buying less clothes, and when I want new clothes, get them from charity shops or vintage shops and not from fast fashion stores/brands. This understanding is essential to me as a learner of the fashion industry. However, I like to think that I already do small things to save the planet, such as reusing the same plastic bag every time I go food shopping or reusing the same bottle of water for months. I understand it would be better to just own a portable water bottle, but I can’t just use a plastic bottle of water once and put it in the bin. 

To conclude the lecture, Fitzpatrick reinforced the importance of bringing up the issues of sustainability and consumerism when having conversations with friends. As I next step I have to, in some way, bring more awareness to these issues.