Ethne Read

After reviewing a few of my peer’s blogs I decided to write my response on Molly Zepatel’s 3rd  blog reflecting on her project outcome of Makeup Breakdown. I chose this as she attached and analysed pictures of her work during the project which would be interesting to respond to. She is also on my course so I thought it would be a good way of comparing responses and elements of the project that she would incorporate in her future practices.

Molly starts addressing the better lives themes within the context of how the project aspects had changed during the lockdown. Stating that people were “recycling materials and creating something really beautiful from them.” And thus being sustainable through reusing. She then goes on to detail which materials she, personally, reused and utilises pictures of the look she created with some recycled lace. Said lace was “unpicked” from an “old project” making it even more sustainable as two separate items were being recycled. 

Diversity is another theme Molly illudes to within her blog. Referring to lectures surrounding the subject as “inspiration” for her final design. Linking this blog to previous ones. She expresses disappointment as she feels she struggled to “convey” it and goes on to say her ideal model would have been a man. Hindrance of COVID 19 and the nationwide lockdown. A male model would have been more relevant and suitable as Molly took inspiration from the glam rock era when traditional views of gender began to be subverted and “were more experimental with their gender”.

Molly, however, neglects to mention the third better lives theme of Social Responsibility. I feel as if this might be because it can be difficult to define as well as being difficult to apply to low scale projects. It is arguable that Molly is being socially responsible merely by adhering to the rules of the lockdown. Even despite her desire for a male model. Molly has also been socially responsible as a result of recycling and being sustainable as well as the small scale she was working on resulting in no unethical practices or mass waste. 

Overall Molly addressed how, both, sustainability and diversity were themes incorporated into her project and designs. Although she neglected to mention social responsibility in this blog it was, indeed, something she pursued during this project due to her adherence to the lockdown guidelines. As well as the many other responsible aspects of her practice. 

My project was Mask making and Politics of which the objective was to make a mask inspired by a political message that we were passionate about. This links well to my costume degree as it’s an element we are yet to explore technically yet I am interested in the process. I chose to focus on deforestation and extinction threatening to wipe out entire species. Not only is this something I care a great deal about but it also links to the better lives theme of sustainability. I focused on the threat towards jaguars as deforestation of the Amazon due to unsustainable farming, as well as a number of other causes, and poaching have put them at risk of extinction.

In our first session, we looked at masks in the context of different cultures and principles. Such as the characters portrayed in Venetian masks. Which expanded the diversity of our research. We also explored possible materials to use to construct the mask. I chose to use papier-mache as it worked the best with my final design as it would be easy to paint. To make the mask we made a base on a face plaster cast out of clay. However, I had only just finished this stage during our final lesson before Easter and the coronavirus lockdown so I had not yet moved onto the papier-mache stage. And my mould is most likely dried up and unusable. As a result, I am unable to physically complete it. The COVID 19 crisis has also made it hard for me to keep up with this unit. I am a practical learner and I struggle to sit and listen to the lectures, and to stay concentrated and engaged, as they are now online. 

The mask I intended to make was a jaguar with an open mouth bearing its canine teeth. The face of the wearer would be situated inside of the mouth obstructed by the teeth. I was then going to paint this in the correct colours but in a Bhuntanes like style. However, as I have been unable to carry this on the work has become more research-focused which has been useful in gaining more advanced knowledge of masks and how they are used and made in different cultures. 

Overall it’s obvious that this better lives project would have been brilliant if it hadn’t been, rightfully, disturbed by the COVID 19 pandemic. I was so looking forward to making my mask and I think it would have been brilliant but at least I now have the knowledge to maybe make it in the future and incorporate it into my own degree. I have also been able to explore the better lives themes further and focus on my favourite of the three; sustainability. 

 In John Lau’s lecture, he outlined that there are four main areas to focus on regarding cultural sustainability; culture, globalisation, cultural diversity and misrepresentation. 

During the lecture, Lau describes culture is defined as ‘ideas, customs and social behaviours’ of a group of people as well as “part nature…part nurture”. Within this culture can also be specified into more specific groups. Including ‘objective culture’ which is visible- relating to artefacts, clothing and food. Something tangible. Contradicting this is ‘subjective culture’ which is invisible and forms values, norms and attitudes. Within my own work, I have never really reflected on how it may be perceived in different cultures as it has never travelled that far out of my own or been particularly controversial. However, it is interesting to think about how certain pieces could be alternatively viewed in different cultures.

Globalisation is another area to take into consideration when discussing cultural sustainability. Due to the globalisation of the planet, initially dominated by western societies since the start of the early 1900s, cultural aspects have been adopted, preserved and destroyed. This is largely thanks to the British empire and the reaping of the British industrial revolution. With modern globalisation in the context of fashion, the major issues are pollution, cultural appropriation and unethically sourced clothing. With my own clothing choices, I actively purchase items that are ethically sourced and not contributing to pollution. From apps such as Depop and eBay as well as vintage and charity shops. Within my own work, I never make on a large enough scale to require a workforce but I try and avoid wasting fabric as much as possible by cutting efficiently and reusing scraps. As well as upcycling fabrics which is also financially sustainable.

Cultural diversity within the context of both fashion and costume is a very topical issue. Mainly within the aspect of representation. As fashion is a massive aspect of the media and responsible for the majority of beauty standards is often been branded as lacking diversity with its models. In recent years, however, attempts have been made to make the industry less white which has resulted in some prominent models of different races emerging however although the improvement the industry still lacks diversity. The issue of using white models with certain styles linked to specific non-white cultures consistently creates backlash towards the industry which would be easily avoidable if the correct model was used or a more diverse design team was at hand. Within my own work, I actively try and design inclusively to not only races but gender identities, the differently-abled and all sizes. I will now be even more vigilant to do so.

In a similar sense, misrepresentation is also an issue when discussing cultural sustainability such as when styles linked to certain, usually African cultures, are misrepresented on white models. This is cultural appropriation which is sometimes filtered into popular fashions. Things such as deadlocks which spark outrage when used for high fashion purposes as the African community is historically supremely mistreated, marginalised and held up to white western beauty standards. If something I designed was influenced by a particular culture I would make sure whoever wore it would be a representative of said culture.   

Overall cultural sustainability covers a vast area of issues that need to be addressed on a larger scale and aspects that I will implement and continue to do in my own work.

Out of all the Better Lives themes sustainability is the most important to me. I am cripplingly aware of the climate crisis and how the fashion industry is the second biggest polluter. Environment wise sustainability also refers to not being wasteful with resources on both a small and large scale. As well as illuding to the responsible use of natural resources. However, sustainability doesn’t solely allude to the environment but also race and representation which is referred to as cultural sustainability. As my project is Mask Making and Politics I will definitely incorporate an aspect of sustainability in my work. Most likely focusing on environmental impact and the threat that a lack of sustainability is causing.

Cultural sustainability, by John Lau,  was the focus of my favourite of the Better Lives lectures. I found the content of it thought-provoking and just generally interesting. It discussed a lot of topical issues, and things currently debated in the media, that I enjoyed learning more about as they include aspects I actively try to consider when making and designing. Such as diversity and inclusion. Within my project of mask making and politics, I want to make sure my design is sustainable and not limited by my own cultural bias views so the politics behind the design is more accessible.   

Katie Fletcher’s lecture on Nature was another instalment I found interesting as she discussed the lack of connection between humans and nature. And thus the issues caused by humanity’s relentless consumerism. The fashions industry, over time, has ingrained this behaviour. Resulting in it the carelessness towards the planet rippling out into other aspects of nature such as wildlife and natural habitats threatened by the selfish pursuits of humanity. This is definitely something that I will include in my mask making and politics project as it’s something I find interesting and am genuinely passionate about. As it is also a global issue it will meet my desire for the projects to transcend and culturally political barriers. It is also becoming an incredibly hot topic due to the growing unrest concerning the situation and the emergence of protests and groups such as extinction rebellion. Which could be a valuable source of inspiration as it is a global group. 

Overall sustainability is something that I have found inspiring during the better lives project to expand my previous knowledge of the subject. As it is a subject I am excited by there is no way I won’t be including it in my project. Especially as my work is driven by a political meaning that I will derive heavily, if not solely, from the topic/theme of sustainability.