Harriet Rowney

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Blog 4 – Peer review

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For my peer review, I have chosen to reflect on Jiyong Lee’s 2nd blog post, ‘Reflections on how the Better Lives themes might change how you work in the future’. My reasoning for this choice is due to their clear understanding of social responsibilities and their ability to apply the aim to their work in Emerging Technologies.

In particular, Jiyong was able to exercise an understanding in social responsibility through their research into patterns between fake fur and leather jackets from 2004 to 2020. I found the graph to be useful in understanding Jiyong’s findings and the multiple viewpoints discussed show the complexity of the subject – especially the mention of the impact of advertising. Jiyong’s explanation of social responsibility with regards to media exposure is insightful when questioning the extent of agency consumers occupy. Having used H&M as an example, I was surprised at how Jiyong was unable to find any advertising for H&M’s sustainable collection and encouraged me to question why. 

However, I think Jiyong could have discussed sustainability and diversity more within her reflections post. Perhaps Jiyong could have expanded upon the H&M sustainability collection in more depth and refer to the role Emerging Technologies played in the creation of that collection. Moreover, H&M has became under fire recently for their modelling choices with regards to a children’s jumper, having cast a young black boy to wear a ‘cheeky monkey’ hoodie. It may have been interesting for Jiyong to look at the insensitivity behind the choice and the possibilities as to why; for example, it may have been intentional in order to gain more attention for their new children’s line.

Overall, I think Jiyong was able to successfully discuss social responsibility with regards to Emerging Technologies and I found her research to be insightful. However, when looking at the other themes of the Better Lives unit: diversity and sustainability, I think Jiyong could have expanded slightly more. 

Jiyong’s post can be found at: https://1920betterlivessmc.myblog.arts.ac.uk/2020/05/04/blog-2-reflections-on-how-the-better-lives-themes-might-change-how-you-work-in-the-future-2/

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Blog 3 – Project outcomes and personal development

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Despite unforeseen circumstances regarding COVID-19, I have found enrolling in contemporary portrait photography on the Better Lives unit to have proven successful in encouraging students to consider alternative ways of engaging with photography. As sustainability, diversity and social responsibility were the focal point of the unit, I have been able to develop concepts regarding photography that I would like to pursue and include what I now feel is imperative to consider. 

Having looked at Cindy Sherman, Claude Cahun and Keiji Uematsu’s work, we have seen how we can create our own signature. Due to this, I have found I prefer taking more relaxed, almost candid images as I think they are able to capture the emotions within a moment more effectively. Especially when photographing my family, this has been more convenient as I haven’t had access to professional equipment or been able to create an interesting set. Reflecting on what I had learnt prior to beginning my project, I was able to be more resourceful and therefore sustainable by using my own garments to style and household objects to establish a set. Although, had circumstances been different, I would have liked to visit vintage stores around London to style my model in a way that fits her body perfectly in order to establish a solid silhouette. I would have also enjoyed photographing a series of women to see the ways in which diversity can affect the overall outcome of an album.

Although difficult, I have found adapting to the current pandemic much easier than I initially expected as the face-to-face sessions already informed us of the ways we can perform photography without access to professional equipment. For example, the ‘Lux’ app allowed me to check the ISO, aperture and speed of my surroundings and how to use them when aiming to create a certain affect. Prior to embarking on the contemporary portrait photography unit, I was unaware of the app or the three features to consider, let alone how to use them. For my images, I predominately used natural sunlight as I found it created a much warmer glow than artificial light and allowed me to play with shadows in an interesting way that I believe would have been much more difficult to achieve with lighting equipment.

To conclude my project, I have found contemporary portrait photography to be insightful regarding the ways in which we can manipulate an image with camera settings that was unfamiliar to me prior. In terms of the sustainability, diversity and social responsibility focus of Better Lives, the initial lectures made me consider my individual impact on global issues and how I intend on adjusting my work to recognise the three. With regards to my final project, I was able to adapt to the unfortunate circumstance and produce photographs I think reflected what I have learnt throughout the unit.

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Blog 2 – The impact of Better Lives

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Since reflecting on the Better Lives lectures, I have been motivated and inspired by the ways in which we are each able to make small changes contributing towards a big development within fashion. In doing so, I have considered how I can do my part.

Within my Better Lives course, contemporary portrait photography, I have recognised ways in which I can be more ethical during my project. For example, educating myself on where garments originate from and the implications of me buying them has on the market and developing countries, which prior to attending Julia Crew’s lecture on power, I hadn’t given much thought about. Upon reflection, I have since explored different ways of consuming fashion through second-hand sites such as Vestiaire Collective and The RealReal. However, it almost seems as if an equal society is impossible. Although attempts to improve economic disadvantage in developing countries, such as the Made with Love Project, are progressive and positive, “the crisis-prone nature of capitalism means it would likely be plunged into deep recession by radical attempts to modify the degree of surplus value extracted from labour in a sector such as clothing.” (Brooks, 2015)

Moreover, the sensitivity required with regards to representation is a factor I intend on prioritising throughout. Especially when photographing very distinct cultures, I feel it is important to appreciate and respect their individual aesthetics not only from an ethical point of view, but to remain socially relevant and avoid an online ‘cancel culture’. This can be achieved by researching the history and connotations behind each decision I make with regards to styling, location, make-up and hair, and direction of the shoot. An example of such being US Vogue’s April 2008 cover staring Gisele Bundchen and Lebron James, whereby the image “provoked allegations of racial stereotyping, with some critics saying the image of James, his teeth bared in a mixture of a roar and a growl, is ‘ape-like’.” (Sherwell, 2008) Similar was found in the controversial 2018 H&M campaign. Evidently, a lack of knowledge and understanding of history and the connotations that can be implied from minor details, such as facial expressions and casting, has resulted in severe backlash. Although, it can be argued the lack of inclusion amongst high fashion luminary has caused such poor judgement; with little diversity at the top, there is limited perspective.

When completing my project for contemporary portrait photography and others in future, I intend on continuing to be inquisitive with all my decisions; considering different perspectives and outcomes. I feel it is imperative to encourage inclusivity to ensure my work is respectful and representative by working alongside creatives from different backgrounds, as well as ethical and sustainable by using second-hand garments, contributing towards a more circular industry.

Bibliography:

Brooks, A. (2015) Clothing Poverty: The Hidden World of Fast Fashion and Second-Hand Clothes (pg. 153) Zed Books. Available at: ProQuest Ebook Central (Accessed on: March 31 2020)

Sherwell, P. (2008) Race row over ‘King Kong’ Vogue cover. Available at: https://www.telegraph.co.uk/news/worldnews/1583333/Race-row-over-King-Kong-Vogue-cover.html (Accessed on: March 31 2020)

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Blog 1 – Better Lives: sustainability, diversity and social responsibility

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In our modern times, sustainability, diversity and social responsibility has become somewhat of a trend amongst curators and consumers alike. Thus, it has been interesting to see the ways in which one of the leading fashion universities (UAL) has come to address such a global discussion. The Better Lives unit has enabled all members of LCF to consider the ways in which we can each contribute towards bettering the controversial fashion industry, regardless of our differing courses.

In particular, Julia Crew’s analysis on power struggles were educational in helping to understand the complexities of trying to control economic imbalances within fashion. As one of the wealthiest consumer industries there is, it seems obscene for there to be such great inequality; a pressing universal issue, with 8 men owning the same wealth of 3.6 billion people who make up the poorest half of humanity. (Oxfam, 2017) Especially within garment production, Crew explained how politicians argue rising wages will drive companies to produce clothes wherever it’s cheaper, how economists call it a “race to the bottom” whereby companies rush to countries with the lowest prices regardless of the impact, and how manufacturers predict higher wages will damage the domestic industry’s ability to compete in the global market and workers could lose their jobs as a result. Unfortunately, it appears “business people often become so enmeshed in the practice of business that they lose the ability to discern and react to possible ethical dilemmas.” (Boylan, 2014)

Moreover, I found Teleica Kirkland’s perspectives on representation to be enlightening by making her audience question the cause and effect of diversity and inclusion within the fashion industry. Using Marc Jacobs’ controversial dreadlocks used for his SS16 runway show as an example, Kirkland refers to subject appropriation; “the Canada Council… recognises as a form of appropriation ‘the depiction of… cultures other than one’s own.’” (Young, 2008) The Marc Jacobs show clearly exemplified the effect and difference types of representation: cultural appropriation and cultural appreciation, alongside which, in our strive to develop a more diverse industry, is preferred.

In doing so, the Better Lives unit has ultimately show how we, as the next generation of fashion creatives, can and should intend on changing the industry for the better, whilst ensuring we are well versed on the complexities of doing so. I found the series of lectures to be enlightening and inspiring by encouraging students to think about the power and impact they have regarding sustainability, diversity and social responsibility.

Bibliography:

Boylan, M. (2014) Business Ethics (pg. 46) Wiley-Blackwell, West Sussex. Available at: EBSCO Host (Accessed on: February 17 2020)

Oxfam (2017) Just 8 men own same wealth as half the world. Available at: https://www.oxfam.org/en/press-releases/just-8-men-own-same-wealth-half-world (Accessed on: February 17 2020)

Young, J.O. (2008) Cultural Appropriation and the Arts (pg. 7) John Wiley & Sons, Incorporated, Hoboken. Available at: ProQuest Ebook Central (Accessed on: February 17 2020)

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