Emily Phillips

https://web.microsoftstream.com/video/9ae54b6e-fb0f-404e-9e59-fd7891cf6741

For the Better Lives unit I participated in the Fashion Activism group project where we were instructed to produce a moving image for the brand Nubian Skin. As a group we decided to create something that utilized all of our specialized skills in some way, and what we came up with was to create a series of GIFs for Instagram. The GIFs were built around three different images of a darker ‘nude’ bra and underwear set hanging up – unfortunately without a model (excluding one image in which the photographer incorporated her own arms) as we had to adapt to global changes due to coronavirus. Then the illustration students in the group added simple line drawings of hands or size inclusive women drawn in various nudes throughout the images. These drawing were then animated to create movement within the image resulting in a GIF. Additionally, some captions that I had written for the Instagram layout were included in a video which presented all three GIFs together. 

The main Better Lives theme that we focused on with this project was diversity; and as a group we were able to incorporate this by using diverse body sizes in the illustrations as well as diverse skin colours in both the illustrations and the styling of the base images. These ideas are a great representation of Nubian Skin’s brand identity as these are both of their main values. Again, my role was to write Instagram captions for the GIF’s. In my own work, I was sure to

Incorporate these values, though maybe in a bit more obvious way since I was using text rather than visuals. Some examples of captions that I came up with were ‘there is so much beauty in being black”, and “let’s be confident and comfortable together”, “Nubian Skin: for confidence and comfort”. These captions acknowledge the diversity in skin colour that our GIFs present, and when combined with the GIFs demonstrate diversity in size as well. 

            What I found to be a challenge in creating this moving image was adapting to the unprecedented times in which we are living through. Generally, my group was good at working together, but we were in fact spread out across the globe, all on varying time zones, and struggling to get in contact all together at the same time. We overcame this challenge by having group calls with as many people as we could get together multiple times a week to discuss ideas and allocate tasks, as well as maintaining a WhatsApp group where we were able to communicate effectively and share our experiments for the GIFs and other ideas until finally coming to a finalized series of moving images. 

            Overall, I think that the moving image my group and I produced was greatly influenced by the Better Lives themes, specifically diversity, due to its relevance to the brand. This can be seen, quite clearly, in the choices we made in colouring the illustrations, choosing what undergarments to photograph, and designing the drawings of women that were included. 

In particular, the Better Lives theme of sustainability is of the utmost importance to me. One lecture that I attended which discussed this was Katie Fletcher’s Nature, during which she brought to light the disconnect between humans, most of whom are consumers to some extent, and nature. Fletcher explained in depth, utilizing her historical and scientific knowledge, how the fashion industry contributes to this disconnect and explored ways in which to regain an appreciation for the natural world. Linking this to the journalistic work that I will create both now and in the future it will be of the utmost importance for me to explore stories that discuss sustainability in some way. As a journalist I have the power to inform the public about issues regarding the fashion industry and its place in a decreasingly sustainable world. 

However, my group for fashion activism was allocated the brand Nubian Skin, to which the main value is diversity. Linking this back to Teleica Kirkland’s lecture on Representation which stood out to me so much, I am reminded of the discussion she created around harmful innate judgements made by every individual everyday due to a plethora of misrepresentation in the media. Her lecture focussed majorly on race, in particular black representation and how the media reflects a perceived notion of Eurocentric values. With a brand such as Nubian Skin, where the objective is to include people of all racial tones that are often excluded from mainstream ‘nude’ undergarments, Eurocentric values are disregarded and true, natural, colourful human appearance is embraced. The brand also focuses on representing people of all shapes and sizes; they do not promote the traditional values of beauty that the media portrays, but inclusive, diverse, real ones instead. 

Also, Kirkland brought to light many varying ideas about race and culture that brought me to think about my own place in society as mixed race person rather than a strictly black or a white person. I think that my background has in some ways given me a unique cultural capital that I can utilize to inform my practice in regard to the Better Lives theme of Diversity. 

In attending my Fashion Activism sessions, I have recognized ways in which I am able to be more aware of diversity in my work. For example, choosing to report on culturally and physically diverse brands such as Nubian Skin rather than brands that promote unattainable ideas of beauty such as Victoria’s Secret can create awareness and exposure for the brand, leading to a more mainstream presence of diversity in the media. As a journalist I have the power to do that. Also, to write for magazines, websites, newspapers that genuinely support diversity. In the future, I plan to take the Better Lives themes into my work to the best of my ability as these themes are massively important in creating an industry that promotes good, and can be a place in which I feel good about working. 

I attended many different Better Lives lectures that discussed various issues in the world and in fashion that reflect the Better Lives themes. One lecture in particular that stood out to me was Teleica Kirkland’s talk on Representation; I found many of the other lectures to discuss ideas which I have deeply explored before, whereas many of Kirkland’s ideas were new to me. The main focus of her lecture was misrepresentation in the media and stereotyped portrayals of different people, focussing greatly on black persons. She also discussed cultural appropriation, which is a subject that I have always been greatly interested in due to its great controversies and varying opinions around what is appropriation and what is appreciation. The Better Lives theme she was focussing on was diversity. 

One topic she discussed in the lecture was when the ideas around a particular group of people as being undesirable become so pervasive that they can directly affect the people that themselves are a part of this group – particularly pertaining to race. These ideas come from abundant misrepresentation in the media that eventually becomes so normalized it can change the way we think about both ourselves and others. This is something that I have pondered in my own life, being myself of a mixed raced background and having grown up completely submerged in ‘Eurocentric values,’ as Kirkland called it. She references the book Black Skin, White Masks, by Frantz Fanon in which he, “Perceives the necessity of the black person to adopt the behaviour of the predominant white culture.“ My own experiences and Kirkland’s sort of validation of my own feelings, brings me to consider how these innate feelings that have been pervaded upon us by the media of particularly racist, but also sexist, ageist, ableist, etc., notions effect our creative decisions without us even necessarily noticing or acknowledging their existence. It brings me to consider my own work. Do I bring unbiased opinions about people who are innately looked down upon by society; or do ideas seen in the media and elsewhere permeate my ideas? 

On the topic of cultural appropriation Kirkland showed us two examples of cultural appreciation. Personally, I have always had a difficult time understanding the bridge between cultural appropriation and appreciation but with the examples she provided, such as the Wafrica project, where African and Japanese cultures are respectfully represented, I feel that I have a much better understanding of what defines each. I have learned that in fashion using ideas valuable to other cultures is not inherently bad, as fashion news would have us believe, but can in fact be done respectfully and appreciatively. 

In my opinion fashion is extremely prevalent in the global media and has great ability to influence people and their ideas and values. As such, I think it is important that I consider this in all of my future work, journalistic or otherwise, and work to remove any innate notions that I have developed without choice about myself or others in regard to human differences. 

Regarding the Better Lives themes, fashion, now more than ever holds an extreme social responsibility to in particular permeate change in the way we represent and portray people from diverse backgrounds. My learning during this lecture showed me how much of an influence representation can have, as well as the importance and positive effect of cultural appreciation. 

References:

Kirkland, T. (2020) Representation, Better Lives Unit, London College of Fashion (accessed on: 19 February 2020).