Eloise Mankerty

For the Better Lives unit I was part of the Fashion Activism group, which focused on creative direction with a brief to create a moving image campaign for a clothing brand. We were assigned a brand in small groups; I was part of a group that got assigned Emily Bode. Initially we researched into the brand to understand more about its aesthetic, ethos and positioning within the market, we also created a moodboard to further understand the aesthetic we would be working with for our moving image outcome. We established that the section of activism that the brand Bode focused on was sustainability so we planned to make a video which focused on where the materials came from that were used in the garments, as they were mostly recycled or reclaimed. Originally we had planned to film some of our own footage and combine it with existing footage, however due to the circumstances we had to use only found footage.

Throughout this project I enjoyed working with new people as everyone in my group was on different courses within the College, which also helped for this project as it meant we each had different ideas and areas of knowledge we could combine. I also felt that when coming up with ideas and a concept it is easier to ‘bounce’ ideas off on one another as it leads to an idea you would not have thought of by yourself. The situation was made slightly more difficult due to social distancing however we found ways of having conversations digitally and working on different areas of the video to ensure we each had input in the final outcome.

After reflecting on the situation due to Covid-19 we found some existing footage that included shots of Emily Bode’s clothing and the process of making it, we then worked together to create a short video, which we made for the purpose of posting on Instagram. Working in the team we assigned roles so I edited the footage, Cezary found and edited the music and Lucrecia edited over the text. The video shows close up shots of the clothing and raw materials being sourced and customised, which makes consumers see how transparent the brand is about its manufacturing and material sourcing. The tone of the video is happy and has an aesthetic and colour palette that fits with the brand in order to draw in the kind of customers that would enjoy the brand.

Considering the fact that we did not have access to a lot of equipment and had to make do with found footage, I feel that our outcome still conveys the same message that we set out to create and fits the aesthetic of the brand. I enjoyed this unit as I am passionate about sustainability and fashion having a motivation behind it.

Video link: https://web.microsoftstream.com/video/f51c87ae-d7c1-4e55-9300-5becbee77018

Having heard the Better Lives themes being discussed over the past few weeks has made me reflect on how I would incorporate them into my work as a styling and production student. I think that I was already aware of these issues, however this project has made me realise just how big of an impact there can be by ensuring they are part of everyones practice.

I have always been concerned with sustainability within fashion as I know how bad the fast fashion industry is for the environment. In my most recent project I focused on informing consumers on how they can make better choices when buying clothes and how to avoid fast fashion and I want to continue to spread this message. My opinion is that consumers need to be more educated on the impact that their buying habits can have on not only the environment but also the workers who produce their clothing, therefore as a stylist I will continue to promote more ethical and sustainable brands as well as encouraging second hand buying. When choosing clothing or brands to include in my work I like to find ones that use dead-stock material, have zero waste, use recycled materials, made clothes to last or offer repairs on their clothing as all of these reduce the need for fast fashion. There is also far more craftsmanship in these types of clothes as opposed to fast fashion so it looks better in photoshoots too.

Diversity is also something that I always try to incorporate within my work. Through the better lives lectures it has made me realise this can go further than simply visual representation; it should also include the teams and brands I work with. In my future work I want to make sure I include a diverse team of people who I work with and diverse designers. This is important as a stylist can have a large impact on what people decide to purchase as they are showing people what they think they should wear and minority groups do not always get the support they deserve. Working in a diverse team also means you have a bigger variety of opinions and ideas that can help the outcome of the work to be more diverse and inclusive in its impact.

As the fashion industry is so big, small choices can have a huge impact on peoples lives, therefore it is vital that everyone is considered in each choice that is made. Social responsibility can include ensuring fair pay of workers, but also ensuring that things such as cultural appropriation are not taking place and that people are aware of their power within fashion. In my own practice I think that I will always think about the work I am creating and try to imagine it through other perspectives to make sure I am being responsible.

Having watched a number of lectures for the Better Lives unit has made me reflect on the impact that fashion can have and the various ways in which people use it in their lives. The lecture that I feel has changed my thinking about fashions influence was the lecture on Power by Julia Crew.

“Fashion, as an affirmative life force of human togetherness, is a celebration of life and community between people… However, it is also an industry, a system, an apparatus of visual judgement, a conglomerate of capitalist powers that affects our togetherness.” Von Busch & Cuba, 2014. This quote that Julia included in the lecture reminded me of something I feel that I tend to forget sometimes, that fashion is an industry and is often focused on money and business. Oftentimes brands sell us the idea of the clothing and as a styling student I tend to focus on the visual aspects but it is important to remember that behind the aesthetic value there is a massive industry reliant on sales.

In the lecture Julia explored the power of fashion: it has been used for centuries to create hierarchies imposing literal power, it can be used as a marker of identity, but more recently fashion is more linked to economic power and the imbalance of wealth. Those at the top profit by exploiting those at the bottom, e.g brand owners have millions yet the people who produce the clothing will be paid a minimum and struggle to survive.  There are many good companies that ensure the fair payment and treatment of their staff, however there are still so many companies that are simply for profit. Reflecting on this point I think that consumers have alot of the power in the choices they make when purchasing items, and a lot of people do not realise how important it is to understand where their items came from. Companies that have good ethics and are more sustainable should therefore be vocal about what they are doing, so consumers are aware and start to question the ethics of brands they have previously purchased from. Consumers have the power to make informed decisions and in larger numbers acts such as boycotts have the power to create change in the industry.

Media was another aspect that Julia brought up in the lecture. We are all influenced by media everyday, often without realising it, especially in more recent years with the rise of smartphones and social media. Fashion has become more than just clothing worn outside, we can now see images of clothing online 24/7 and access to fashion has become far wider spread. The need for newness and pressures of looking good have driven us to consume far more fashion than ever before, and this links back to the fact that fashion is a business, so brands are always pushing for more sales and faster.

Referring back to the quote at the beginning of the lecture, I think that there needs to be more of a focus on the togetherness and community of fashion. People need to make more informed decisions about purchases in order to reduce the demand for fast fashion as collectively we have a lot of power, however the brand owners need to take responsibility and make changes too.

References:

Crew, J. (2020) ‘Power’ [Lecture]. Better Lives, London College of Fashion, 10 February