Ruby Donohoe

Better Lives Journey

My Better Lives journey personal development has proven invaluable. Studying and constantly reflecting on the Better Lives themes has undoubtedly heightened my awareness of sustainability, diversity and social responsibility. In addition to a new awareness of these crucial themes, I have also developed styling skills whilst considering wider issues in the fashion industry and world in general.

My subject specific Better Lives project ‘In and outside of fashion: Sportswear Fashion language and sub-cultures’, has allowed me to creatively investigate fashion styling while giving me insight on sportswear as a historical and influential movement.

Project Outcomes

Learning outcomes included two full body styled looks created in two Style Lab Masterclasses. The first Masterclass took place at University, which allowed our tutors and peers to comment and encourage created looks. Despite the Covid-19 outbreak, the second Masterclass continued in an online setting.

My first full body styled look included: purple sweatpants by Juicy Couture, a pair of unbranded sweatpants and Nike Shox. The experimental focus of this look was on the silhouette which was created by the model, myself, wearing a pair of sweatpants as a top.

Continuing with the Better Lives themes, our second and final Style Lab Masterclass brief was to combine sportswear with a subculture or subcultures to inspire styling that celebrates a healthy lifestyle, contributing to the global effort to overcome these difficult times.

My final look included: hoop earrings by H&M, a scrunchie by Topshop, pink cropped jacket by Versace, white leotard by American Apparel, black cropped leggings by M&S and black Tabi shoes by Maison Margiela.

I combined sportswear and the 1980s fitness trend to create a unique styled look. Revolving my garments around sportswear, I chose to incorporate metallic fashion elements (Tabis featuring metallic detail, shiny pink jacket & pink metallic hairpiece) in my ensemble to promote a feminine, youthful aesthetic.

Following the Better Lives theme of sustainability I have used second hand items (Versace jacket), as well as brands that support sustainability (Margiela & American Apparel) to create my look to ensure a considered contribution within my final outcome.

Personal Development

I feel that through-out my Better Lives experience, I have had an informed opportunity to develop my styling talents and knowledge of the industry. Considering my first project outcome look had no focus on sustainability, opposed to my second project outcome which incorporated vintage pieces and items from sustainable brands.

Moving forward with my personal creative practice I will be more considerate and insightful about the ongoing issues of sustainability, diversity and social responsibility. Experimenting and engaging with the Better Lives themes and visual languages has encouraged me to consider and explore these issues in both a fashion and global context.

Sustainability, Diversity & Social Responsibility

Sustainability, diversity and social responsibility are among the hot topics of conversation within the fashion industry currently. These three themes are also the core values of London College of Fashion, as well as the focus of my Better Lives project.

The themes of sustainability, diversity and social responsibility are all extremely important and hold value of their own. However, sustainability is something I have been passionate about prior to this project.

Sustainability is defined as being “able to be maintained at a certain level or rate”. This applies to the world we inhabit and the planetary boundaries we are all responsible to comply with. 2020 saw the United Kingdom declare a climate emergency. Industrialisation has been a huge contributor to the current climate state of the planet Earth.

Unsustainable Fashion

Fast fashion is a term which describes fashion’s that are cheap and quickly moving in and out of style. Fast fashion retailers include the likes of; H&M, Zara and Pretty Little Thing. Most people I know will have at least one, if not several items, from these brands hanging in their closet, and this is the problem.

Fast fashion brands target consumers based on current trends and low prices, this way of producing clothing is a response to new mass production technologies and the growth in the fashion consumer market.

Not to mention the negative impact that fast fashion has on the planet, “in 2016 the carbon footprint of clothing in use in the UK was 26.2 million tonnes CO2e”, most fast fashion brands produce their products in sweatshops and factories abroad where employees are paid inhumanely low wages.

February 5th 2019 the House of Commons filed a report on Sustainability of the Fashion Industry following the ongoing damage of fast fashion buying and consuming in the United Kingdom.

Sustainable Fashion

Sustainable fashion is fashion that is produced regarding the environmental and socio-economic aspects in a responsible manner. Sustainable fashion brands include; LA Apparel and Patagonia, both of these brands adopted the use of recycled materials and organic cotton, reducing their fashion footprint.

Changing fast fashion habits and contributing to the support of sustainable and ethical fashion can be done by changing habits. Thrifting and buying pre-loved clothing is another great way to reduce your fashion footprint.

Upon further reflection of the Better Lives theme of sustainability, and research into different ways I can incorporate sustainability in my everyday and professional life. Following this, I will consider how sustainable my styling choices will be within my Better Lives styling brief as well as my upcoming projects within my practice.

References

The University of Maine (2020) Office of Sustainability. Available at: umaine.edu/sustainability/what-is-sustainability/ (Accessed: 16/04/2020).

Wrap (2017) Valuing Our Clothes: the cost of UK Fashion. Availible at: wrap.org.uk/sites/files/wrap/valuing-our-clothes-the-cost-of-uk-fashion_WRAP.pdf (Accessed: 16/04/2020)

Empathy

The ideology of human empathy comes from identifying with and understanding. Consider the emotional response you had the last time you saw watched an advert about the neglection of animals or the other day when you encountered a homeless begging in the street. Empathy is something every human can relate to, yourself included.

The lecture delivered by Lorriane Gamman unpacked an abundance of topics in relation to the theme of empathy. Designing with empathy, empathic fashion, inclusiveness, empathy and representation were some of the areas that I engaged with most.

Sexualisation of Females in Fashion

From billboard campaigns to editorials, it is blatant that the objectification of females is still at large. Whilst the fashion industry remains tying to incorporate diversity, inclusivity and the female gaze, it is evident that we still have a long journey ahead of us when trying to imagine fashion without female sexualisation.

Gamman discussed misogynistic fashion and certain advertisements including the 2010 Calvin Klein campaign shot by Mert Alas and Marcus Piggott. One image centres a near-naked model, Lara Stone, amongst a number of men who are depicted intensely groping and grabbing her. The advertisement was pulled from the public eye after The Advertising Standards Bureau received numerous complaints that the image suggests the rape and violence. 

Glorifying Violence and Rape

One thing that caught my attention was who was on the other side of the camera to Lara Stone, a male photographer duo – Mert and Marcus. The fact that two males captured this moment glorifying the rape of woman, enhances the exploitation of females in fashion. It isn’t hard to see the obvious sexism, sexualisation and objectification in this image. 

Upon reflection of Calvin Klein’s blatant disregard for the empathy of domestic violence and rape victims, I began to wonder if it was possible to display these painful subjects in a way that wasn’t offensive or insensitive. 

Whilst I conclude that females have been objectified by being displayed in visual content for erotic impact largely driven by male consumerism, I wonder if you take the image away from a fashion and advertising context would some stigma be removed? If the image had been photographed by a female photographer would more be removed? If the image had been used to promote victim awareness as oppose to being part of a money-making system, how would it be received?

Awareness and Empowerment

Take Nan Goldin’s 1984 self-portrait titled ‘Nan one month after being battered’. This image is highly regarded because it promotes a message of strength and resilience from a survivor of domestic abuse and signifies the end of a relationship between a victim and abuser. I wonder if I could use my photographic practice to support a similar message of empowerment of domestic abuse survivor’s whist promoting awareness, in opposition to using violence against females as an advertising technique.