1: Lau’s Cultural Sustainability
In John Lau’s lecture, he outlined that there are four main areas to focus on regarding cultural sustainability; culture, globalisation, cultural diversity and misrepresentation.
During the lecture, Lau describes culture is defined as ‘ideas, customs and social behaviours’ of a group of people as well as “part nature…part nurture”. Within this culture can also be specified into more specific groups. Including ‘objective culture’ which is visible- relating to artefacts, clothing and food. Something tangible. Contradicting this is ‘subjective culture’ which is invisible and forms values, norms and attitudes. Within my own work, I have never really reflected on how it may be perceived in different cultures as it has never travelled that far out of my own or been particularly controversial. However, it is interesting to think about how certain pieces could be alternatively viewed in different cultures.
Globalisation is another area to take into consideration when discussing cultural sustainability. Due to the globalisation of the planet, initially dominated by western societies since the start of the early 1900s, cultural aspects have been adopted, preserved and destroyed. This is largely thanks to the British empire and the reaping of the British industrial revolution. With modern globalisation in the context of fashion, the major issues are pollution, cultural appropriation and unethically sourced clothing. With my own clothing choices, I actively purchase items that are ethically sourced and not contributing to pollution. From apps such as Depop and eBay as well as vintage and charity shops. Within my own work, I never make on a large enough scale to require a workforce but I try and avoid wasting fabric as much as possible by cutting efficiently and reusing scraps. As well as upcycling fabrics which is also financially sustainable.
Cultural diversity within the context of both fashion and costume is a very topical issue. Mainly within the aspect of representation. As fashion is a massive aspect of the media and responsible for the majority of beauty standards is often been branded as lacking diversity with its models. In recent years, however, attempts have been made to make the industry less white which has resulted in some prominent models of different races emerging however although the improvement the industry still lacks diversity. The issue of using white models with certain styles linked to specific non-white cultures consistently creates backlash towards the industry which would be easily avoidable if the correct model was used or a more diverse design team was at hand. Within my own work, I actively try and design inclusively to not only races but gender identities, the differently-abled and all sizes. I will now be even more vigilant to do so.
In a similar sense, misrepresentation is also an issue when discussing cultural sustainability such as when styles linked to certain, usually African cultures, are misrepresented on white models. This is cultural appropriation which is sometimes filtered into popular fashions. Things such as deadlocks which spark outrage when used for high fashion purposes as the African community is historically supremely mistreated, marginalised and held up to white western beauty standards. If something I designed was influenced by a particular culture I would make sure whoever wore it would be a representative of said culture.
Overall cultural sustainability covers a vast area of issues that need to be addressed on a larger scale and aspects that I will implement and continue to do in my own work.