Better Lives Blog #1

The Better Lives lectures have been a really thought provoking and stimulating introduction to the key themes that will be prevalent throughout our studies at UAL, covering Diversity, Sustainability and Social Responsibility. Much of my own work in my previous studies has been motivated by the issue of sustainability, a topic which I already have a real interest in studying and challenging. So whilst the lectures around sustainability were interesting, I felt I was more drawn to those that covered issues I had not previously explored in depth. One of these was Julia Crew’s lecture on power in fashion, which is something I had not really considered beyond surface level observations. There are so many examples of power dynamics to explore under the umbrella of the fashion industry – from worker’s rights to gender inequality, nearly every aspect can be broken down to who has the power, why they have it, and how they use it, as well as the other end of the spectrum, to those who are without power and agency.

This lecture made me reflect on my perception of power in the fashion industry, and I immediately thought of the infamous Rana Plaza factory collapse in 2013. It was a shocking event that was a bit of a wakeup call for the industry, but in the 6 years that have passed since, it doesn’t feel like much has changed. Luxury brands such as Prada, Gucci and Versace were clients of the factory – all billion dollar companies, who could and should pay all their employees a decent living wage, and ensure their safety at work. In the aftermath of the factory collapse, there was a real increase in awareness of where our clothes are made, and consumers were encouraged to make good choices as to where they shop and which companies they give their money to. But this raises another issue– who actually has the power and responsibility to make real change in the industry?

I feel like our power as consumers is limited – we can try and shop ethically where we’re able, but ultimately the average shopper doesn’t have the financial freedom to invest in better quality, ethical products, and will carry on purchasing from morally ambiguous companies out of necessity. Brands that have the monetary power and influence to change the way the supply chain is run should be doing so – I can’t understand why they’re not. I know it isn’t as simple as ‘enforcing’ decent wages, as people will find loopholes, there will always be another factory willing to do it for cheaper, and companies will prioritise profit. But what will it take for real change to happen? I myself make an effort to shop ethically where I can, but I’m not sure what will motivate companies to use their power for good – protests/boycotts? New laws? Redistribution of power/wealth?. I don’t know, but hope in the near future things we’ll find out, and there will be a significant change for the better.