Wayne Thomas-Rhoden – blog 2
In thinking about how the Better Lives themes might alter how I would work in the future, I believe I will be drawn to organisations/brands that embrace these themes in a genuine and non-tokenistic way. Take the theme of diversity, for example. When Edward Enninful was confirmed as editor-in-chief of British Vogue in April 2017, I felt that the magazine would become a safe space for diversity to thrive and flourish in earnest. So much so that I wrote to him and congratulated him on his appointment in addition to submitting my CV and enquiring about the possibility of work experience. My prediction about how the publication would change proved to be true, as Enninful promptly appointed Naomi Campbell and Steve McQueen as contributing editors among others. Indeed, Campbell slammed former editor-in-chief Alexandra Shulman, who was accused of racism after suggesting that black cover models don’t sell issues, which was why, in her 25 years at the magazine, she only put 12 black models and celebrities on its cover. Although nothing came of my work experience enquiry, I feel encouraged nonetheless because opportunities may present themselves in the future where my craft as a stylist from the BAME community could be spotted, supported or even nurtured by a magazine with a black man at its helm. Just the thought of that inspires me and encourages me to look at British Vogue through a new, aspirational lens where anything is possible. The sky is truly the limit within the four walls of 1 Hanover House now, in my opinion.
As regards the theme of sustainability, I totally accept that it will be impossible for me to work in the fashion industry without having an opinion on fashion’s relationship with nature and humanity. My personal red line is on the issue is animal welfare. As a stylist, I would never work with fur, for example. I have a personal affinity to rabbits, as I keep them as pets (guinea pigs and French bulldogs too). During my fashion foundation course, I did some research on the appalling way that angora rabbits are abused for their fur. If I was ever asked to work with such a garment, I would refuse point blank without question. I feel so strongly about this. I remember sitting on a bus recently opposite a lady who was wearing a coat that I suspected to be made of rabbit. I accosted her and asked what it was made of. She replied “mink”. My next comment was that I didn’t approve of animals being used for their fur and she agreed, but proceeded to explain that she was from Siberia and that the winters were so cold there that people couldn’t survive without wearing this type of fur. I also spoke to a girl on my course who was wearing rabbit one day and expressed my disapproval. I just feel so impassioned about this subject and hope that the practice will be eradicated in the future.
4th May 2020 @ 10:49 am
I thoroughly enjoyed reading Wayne’s thoughts on the Better Lives themes particularly because he presents a deeply personal approach to the issues considered. As we happen to attend the same course and I think very highly of Wayne’s styling output, I became quite interested in his observations regarding this unit. While discussing the aspect of diversity, the way in which he draws a clear link between his own experience as fashion practitioner and how it is affected by the changes of tendencies in a broader context of appointing the new Vogue’s editor-in-chief, proves, in my opinion, an excellent example of what this project primarily is about – establishing connections between personal and global perspectives.
In terms of social responsibility, what I personally admire is Wayne’s courage not only to live by the certain values but also to actively promote and fight for them through seemingly little, yet meaningful acts. Although as a vegan I certainly share his views on natural furs, I am not sure if I had the guts to actually comment on someone’s garment. The question that stayed on my mind was whether I would not do that out of politeness or rather cowardice? And, consequently, is having a ‘clean conscience’ just for oneself without any further action isn’t simply turning a blind eye on the greater problems? I feel like I really need to reconsider my approach towards the actual daily participation in values close to me.
I also really like the way Wayne highlights his interest in collaborating solely with the brands which have ethics aligning with his own (which in my understanding, pertains not only to aspect of diversity, but sustainability, too). Regardless of whether it will be an ultimately successful pursuit, I do feel that such an uncompromising approach is not merely a novelty or a sheer idealism, but a perception necessary to contribute to substantial changes in the fashion industry.
Overall, I think Wayne has very precisely defined the areas in which his future work might become or already is influenced by themes of diversity, social responsibility and sustainability. The reflections are insightful and relevant for all of the themes. I’d be interested to find out more whether he thinks that in the stylist’s practice there’s room for not just ‘avoiding the bad’, but further exploring some concepts (such as previously mentioned, animal welfare) for example in some form of activism? And also, whether there are there any other concepts connected to the notion of sustainability that he’d be willing to explore. All in all, I find Wayne’s post to be not only concise and to the point, but also inspiring a further inquiry that I’ll be happy to look into within my own practice.
Thomas-Rhoden, W. (2020) ‘Wayne Thomas-Rhoden – Blog 2’, 19/20 Better Lives SMC, 21 April. Available at: https://1920betterlivessmc.myblog.arts.ac.uk/2020/04/21/wayne-thomas-rhoden-blog-2/ (Accessed: 1 May 2020).