Better lives blog 1 – lecture reflection
In recent years diversity has become an inherent theme within not only the fashion industry but within today’s society and political climate. Although this notoriety of the subject is a positive thing, the saturated focus on diversity has caused a lot of turbulence within the industry. With some brands forcing tokenism and exhausting the word, others neglect it provoking cancel culture and the question we see too often; ‘Is it or isn’t it cultural appropriation?’
The definition of cultural appropriation is the unacknowledged or inappropriate adoption of the ideas of one group of people by another. A recent example that raised the question was the Comme des Garçons controversial FW20 show where the models wore cornrow wigs. People commented that the show was offensive and that the Caucasian models looked silly and out of place in contrast to the few models of colour that walked (BBC News, 2020). Although the hairstylist Julien d’Ys explained that he had been inspired by Egyptian culture and was paying homage to the culture’s depiction of Egyptian princes (BBC News, 2020). It could be argued that had the cast been more diverse and the Egyptian influence more visibly acknowledged, that the show would have been acceptable, however the lack of these made people declare the show the opposite. This is understandable due to previous insensitivities such as Gucci’s balaclava jumper that grossly resembled blackface. (Evening Standard, 2019)
Another matter where the subject of diversity and inclusivity has recently become a huge talking point (thank goodness) is body standards. Moreover, the lack of body diversity we see in the fashion industry today. Endless brands send models that are unrealistically slim for the average female, ingraining these body types into impressionable audiences which has grown to result in the rise of eating disorders over the past two years by 35% (BBC News, 2020).
Although, fortunately more companies are endeavouring to combat this issue within their casting, at the forefront being Rihanna’s brand Savage X Fenty and their ethos of spreading body positivity (New York Times, 2018). However, I believe that the cause of the lack of body diversity within the fashion industry lies within its very roots, from the conception of a design. This is because fashion illustration is taught on the basis that a drawn figure should be nine heads tall, when in fact the proportional human is only five heads tall (Amiko Simonetti, 2020). From the moment a design is illustrated, we are presented with it hanging from a grossly unproportionate body which may then go on to either consciously or subconsciously influence the design and the casting for the model presenting it. Furthermore, if illustration were taught with natural proportions, then maybe designers would have in mind a realistic body to design for and envision it on a more diverse range of bodies, hopefully broadening the diversity of bodies presented in the fashion industry today. This would boost inclusivity and help impressionable audiences to appreciate their own bodies. Audiences would feel represented, their body types normalised and accepted as beautiful, not only would this directly feed economically into the fashion industry – as people are more likely to buy from a brand they can identify with – but it would help to build a kinder society more appreciative of diversity and inclusivity.
Bibliography
BBC News (2020) Comme Des Garçons: Row over white fashion models’ cornrow wigs. Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/world-51166873 (Accessed march 27th 2020)
Evening Standard (2019) Gucci ‘deeply sorry’ for black balaclava jumper that ‘resembles blackface’. Available at: https://www.standard.co.uk/news/world/gucci-in-racism-row-fashion-giant-deeply-sorry-for-black-balaclava-jumper-that-resembles-blackface-a4059951.html (Accessed March 27th 2020)
BBC News (2020) Eating disorder hospital admissions rise sharply. Available at: https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-50969174 (Accessed April 1st 2020)
New York Times (2018) Rihanna talks lingerie, body positivity and her battle with social media. Available at: https://www.nytimes.com/2018/09/13/fashion/rihanna-fenty-savage-new-york-fashion-week.html (Accessed April 1st 2020)
Amiko Simonetti (2020) Fashion sketching: a step by step guide to drawing the basic fashion croquis with 9 heads proportions. Available at: https://www.amikosimonetti.com/life/drawing-the-fashion-figure-with-9-heads-proportion-part-1 (Accessed April 1st 2020)