Let’s ‘Make Do and Mend’
After reading the assignment brief for the Better Lives unit I wondered how this topic related to my chosen path of learning which is costume for performance. All of the first-year students at London College of Fashion, no matter what their discipline, are asked to complete the Better Lives unit to give them a greater understanding of environmental, diversity, social responsibility and sustainability issues.
Previous to the lectures on this course, I attended some lectures on sustainability in the fashion industry so I thought I had an insight already on this issue. After watching and attending some of the Better Lives lectures, this has deepened my awareness. In particular the lecture on ‘Society’ by Katelyn Toth-Fejal. Katelyn mentions how each of us are a social being and how dressing is a social act. ‘Social change happens through individual choices’ is one quote that got me thinking about ways in which the costume industry and myself as a costume practitioner can contribute to resolving this issue. I have learnt that costume makers by trade are familiar with being sustainable. Partly because they are trained to stick to strict budgets, partly due to convenience. They have to make costumes that have to be used frequently for performances so they use hard wearing fabrics. They are trained to preserve garments so that they can be recycled by different performers. When making garments they use larger seam allowances so that they can be adjusted for the next performer who needs to wear the garment. Elastics, drawstrings, buttons and poppers are used as fastenings, again so that a different performer can adjust a garment to their specific size. Costume makers have been using the, ‘Make do and mend’ motto that was used during the war years when people were on clothes rationing. So how can the fast moving, massive money-making fashion industry adapt to these ideas? Is it even possible?
If we are to believe the facts that are given to us in these lectures then it is essential to change our way of thinking, otherwise we will have no planet left. It is that drastic and vital that things change and this change happens as soon as possible. I believe that if the fashion industry reviewed traditional methods of, ‘Make do and mend’ we will have a safer environment for our children to grow up in. Using better quality fabrics will make garments last longer. Mending a garment, putting a patch or a stitch on it will give the garment a longer life. Making the small changes will add up to a big change. It is also fundamental that the fashion industry and governments modify the consumers thought process. It is too easy to buy a cheap garment that lasts for just five or six wears and then throw it away. Purchasing a higher quality garment costs more but lasts longer. Consumers, governments and the fashion industry need to formulate a plan of action that is workable.
No-one wants to take away the creative freedom that fashion gives us but a revolution of practice desperately needs to happen. I remain optimistic that education for everyone involved will bring a positive outcome for all of us.
References
IMPERIAL WAR MUSEUM. (1943) Cover of Make Do And Mend Book. Imperial War Museum.[online image] Available from https://www.iwmshop.org.uk/p/17940/Make-Do-and-Mend [Accessed: 20.02.20]