Representation

Diversity and representation play a huge role in our current society with the theme of Eurocentric values dominating many industries, most notably, the fashion industry. It is largely accepted that western culture has been built on a monoculturalist ideology spread through the rise of imperialism, colonialism and media. However, as we evolve into an ever-increasing digital age, this calls for more emphasis on the comprehension and representation of all groups, no matter how small or misrepresented within the industry.

Teleica Kirkland explains that when only one certain culture is shown throughout the media, other communities can often feel undesirable and somewhat “demonised”. With a focus on the black community, there is a prevalent problem with colourism and how those within the community begin to view themselves as undesirable or even frightening if they have a darker shade of skin compared to lighter skinned people. She mentions the Adidas ‘Change is a Team Sport’ campaign and highlights the lack of darker skinned women and attributes this to the problem of colourism which sees brands favouring lighter skinned women as more ‘attractive’.

The damage of misrepresentation in the modern world is an important aspect to mention as highlighted by Frantz Fanon in his book ‘Black Skin, White Masks’ first published in 1952 and increasingly relevant today. He argued that it is necessary for those within the black community to adopt the culture of the dominant white in order to fit in, causing a self-hatred spurred on by society. This is an excellent example given to illustrate the damage on wellbeing caused by misrepresentation.

However, this is not the only form of misrepresentation worth mentioning as we can also see it in cultural appropriation which happens ever more frequently with the rise of social media and the fashion industry. Cultural appropriation is to use another culture’s symbol or essence and deliver it to a wider audience in a way which misrepresents that culture and can be done for economic gain. Kirkland took this concept further by adding that it is about who has the power and privilege to take elements from another culture without acknowledgement. For example, the fashion label Marc Jacobs came under fire with their Spring 2017 collection for using dreadlocks to accessorise their model’s hair; a prime example of appropriation for economic and publicity gain. 

This lecture was especially eye opening for me as Teleica not only spoke about the downfalls of cultural appropriation, she also spoke equally about cultural appreciation. As a student, it is equally important to become aware of the positive impacts on the fashion industry. For example, the blending of the Japanese and African cultures to create colourful and poignant kimonos in the Wafrica project. The subject of diversity has proved to be increasingly important within our society due to the rise of social media and the influence of those on these platforms. This lecture has been a reminder of the importance of staying aware of misrepresentation within the industry and has taught me the need to remain conscious of this within my future work.